A NIGHT IN ITALY

When I got hired to work at Vitto’s Italian Trattoria in Waco, Texas at the tender young age of 19, I had no idea how much I would learn about wine and European food. I learned to open wine and serve wine properly from the owner, while his Austrian wife Heidi made every element on the menu from scratch. 

Cream sauces were made to order. Fresh garlic bread emerged from the oven every 15 minutes, like clockwork, and she made the most amazing strudel on Earth. 

We did not serve a Pomodoro solo, but it was the base of the Gamberi and Conchile Fra Diavolo, which is shrimp and scallops in a spicy tomato sauce. The bolognese was made with beef and pork, vegetables, and crushed tomatoes. Heidi made the demi glace in house, boiling veal bones and stock vegetables together for days to make the base for the Marsala sauce.

They only used high quality ingredients, everything they made was consistently attractive and delicious, and the stuff they fed us every day before we opened for dinner was a wild exploration of European food for a girl from Central Texas.

One year Heidi ordered fresh oysters for Mother’s Day and she made us all eat one. I am not a fan of raw oysters. I like mine fried crispy with a finely seasoned cornmeal crust. But she never bowed to modern convention or Southern fare. 

One Christmas we had a guest chef from France who made a bazillion profiteroles (custard stuffed cream puffs) glued them together in a tall cone shape using caramel, and then decorated with golden wisps of spun sugar. Known in their magical culinary land as the croquembouche, I got to see the  classic holiday masterpiece made by hand, while snacking on each part as it was made.

Heidi was on the back line the whole time, from early morning until late at night, making classic recipes that spurred a loyal clientele.

This was where I learned the fundamental differences between Northern (the land of cream sauce) and Southern Italian (the mecca for tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil) recipes and ingredients. The menu we had seemed to show the best of each of the five autonomous regions of the country. 

PRIMA	SECONDO	QUATTRO STELLAS	BUONANOTTE
Buffalo Mozzarella with prosciutto and Heirloom Tomato Basil Olive Oil	Romano Caesar with Garlic Croutons	Chicken stuffed with spinach, and tomatoes, topped with Asiago cream  Fettuccine and Penne with Alfredo and Bolognese Cheese Tortellini Rosemarino, with ham and mushrooms Gamberi Y Conchile Fra Diavolo with angel hair	Tiramisu and Espresso
WSCW 2019 Pinot Noir	Torresella Pinot Grigio	WSCW 2018 Texas Blanc du Bois Dry WSCW 2023 Texas Lenoir Blush  WSCW 2024 Texas Lenoir Blush WSCW 2018 Texas Blanc du Bois Sweet	WSCW 2022 Portejas Roja

PRIMO

The starter for this meal is the most basic and simple. You can buy Buffalo Mozzarella almost anywhere these days. Make sure it’s packed in liquid, whether you purchase the large balls or the minis you can marinate and skewer for a handheld version served on a platter instead of plated.

Fresh basil and good olive oil is a must. Little Cherubs or cherries work fine for the skewered version. Otherwise, the tomatoes can always be fresh Romas, unless you can get an heirloom variety or a ripe cluster still on the vine. Slice the tomatoes and the cheese in the same thickness and layer with fresh basil leaves for the plated version. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

To amp up the flavor of the tomatoes in advance, blend the basil and oil with garlic and salt and marinate them for a few hours. If you are using dried herbs, especially dried rosemary, be sure to steep them in the oil overnight. Throw in the mini mozz balls for skewers along with the tomatoes and add red chile flakes and some oregano.

Wear gloves and take care not to stab yourself when you alternate the slippery little tomatoes onto the skewers in tandem with the cheese. If you don’t really like this kind of soft cheese, or your shopping trip did not yield what is suggested here, you can always use cubed provolone or regular skim mozzarella. You can also slice chilled goat cheese and use all the same ingredients.

No one will be mad, as long as you have soft warm French bread or crispy crostini made from baguette slices and a good bottle of wine. If you want to make your own crostini, slice the bread in one inch slices, or use sliced bread cut into small squares and drizzle liberally with olive oil on both sides. Sprinkle it with garlic powder and sea salt. 

Toast them on 250 for about 45 minutes and then turn them over. Toast for another 30 minutes, or until they just start to brown. Allow to cool COMPLETELY before storing in plastic bags, in the fridge or freezer for maximum freshness.

SECONDO

Europeans sometimes eat theirs last. Americans usually eat theirs first. We have come to love the Caesar so much that it has become its own meal, especially when used as a vehicle for grilled chicken and shrimp. If you want to buy a really good Caesar dressing, get Newman’s Own. All proceeds go to help children with disabilities go to an epic summer camp, and it’s one of the best tasting store bought dressings you can find in almost any chain market.

I learned to make it tableside at Vitto’s, with each ingredient in a small ramekin, on a cart, while talking to guests. I am not a fan of anchovies, even though they are part of the historical recipe. You can skip them and make a fine dressing. Or buy the paste so you don’t have to grind them in your kitchen. 

In the interest of food safety, I am not recommending the raw egg base. But you can use raw yolks at home if you are not feeding elderly people, small children, or anyone who has an immunity disorder. Use two fresh yolks to start.

Or combine one tablespoon of real mayo and a teaspoon of Dijon mustard. Add the juice of half a lemon. Add three dashes of garlic powder or a smidge of fresh chopped garlic. Add a few drops of Tabasco. Yes, that’s what my Sicilian boss used. I swear it. Add a few dashes of Worcestershire. If you are out of this brown sauce, soy sauce is a good sub. Just use it sparingly.

Whisk all this together and add a quarter cup of Parmesan cheese and fresh ground black pepper. Taste it and adjust accordingly. Add more mayo for a thicker dressing. Add some oil to thin it. Add more lemon juice for extra tartness, and a splash of red wine vinegar if you want more tang. 

Keep in the fridge until you are ready to serve. Wash and dry your Romaine and tear the lettuce by hand if you want the mix to last longer. Cutting will make it brown around the edges faster. If you are feeding a large crowd, buy precut in bags to save time. My favorite version, which can be found in Old Colorado City at Slice 420 Pizza chops their Romaine super fine, almost like a chiffonade, and I love to serve it that way for small groups, just because it’s easier to eat.

Top with croutons, ground or grated Parmesan, and fresh ground pepper. Then give me a glass of crisp white or slightly fruity red and leave me alone for ten minutes. But leave me the Parmesan and the pepper grinder.

QUATTRO STELLAS

Let’s talk about the center of the meal, inspired by my favorites from this little Bistro. 

We featured daily specials that either showcased two or three of our best pasta dishes together on one plate, or another option that offered the adventurous diner an upper echelon dish in limited amounts, like fresh salmon or red snapper in dill cream sauce with risotto, or osso bucco and roasted potatoes. Those plates went for $22-$25 in the early 90s and would easily cost $30-$60 to replicate today.

The stuffed chicken “rollatini” and the Tortellini ala Heidi were my two all time favorites, along with the other pasta dishes on this list. On slow nights I watched what Heidi and her crew were doing in the kitchen, and tried my hand at home until I got it right. 

It took years, but it was worth every episode of scrubbing burnt cream and tomatoes off my stove to arrive at my own recipes. When my kids were young, they loved her tortellini dish the most, as long as I kept the onions and mushrooms on the side. 

The combo of creamy white and red sauce pleases just about everyone, and you can use ham, bacon, sausage, or pepperoni for your meat eaters. Vegetarians can stick with mushroom tortellini, and you can always reduce canned, full fat coconut milk in the same way you would heavy cream for a delicious sauce for the lactose intolerant. Just sub nutritional yeast flakes in place of parmesan, add roasted garlic, and a few red chile flakes or fresh ground black pepper to taste.

COOKING PASTA

I always advise cooks to use cold water on their pasta to stop the cooking action once it’s done. Dried pasta takes longer to cook than fresh, and if you let pasta sit in hot liquid, it will keep expanding until it’s mush. This is why I generally keep cooked pasta separate from soups and sauce until serving. Adding oil keeps it from sticking into a clump, and makes it easy to unravel, toss, and serve. Just run it under hot water in the strainer a few seconds before serving and sit it back on top of its cooking pot to drain. 

TORTELLINI ALA HEIDI

Prepare your dried, fresh or frozen tortellini (or ravioli) to package directions and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking action. Drizzle with oil while straining and toss a few times in the colander to coat and keep the little pillows from sticking together.

Saute chopped bacon or ham in a large skillet until it starts to brown, then add sliced yellow onions and mushrooms to the pan. Stir and cook until the veggies turn golden, then add a pint of heavy cream. Reduce until thickened, about 8 minutes, stirring frequently. Add half a cup of Parmesan cheese, stir well and turn down the heat to low. Add a cup of Pomodoro (recipe below) or store bought spaghetti sauce. Add tortellini and stir until the sauce just starts to bubble. Remove from heat and serve with crusty garlic bread.

ALFREDO SAUCE:

Basic Alfredo sauce is simply reduced heavy cream with Parmesan, a tiny bit of salt, and black pepper. I think garlic is a must. I swear by garlic powder for the level of flavor I get with no effort. The traditional recipe has a hint of grated nutmeg, which you can use. But it isn’t necessary. Neither is butter, because it will separate from the sauce at a certain temp and make your noodles too oily. But it will still taste great.

In a pinch, use store bought Alfredo and add some heavy cream, garlic powder and black pepper. To increase the volume of any cream sauce, add cream cheese and cream or half and half, blend well and then adjust the seasoning. 

RED SAUCES

For a basic Pomodoro, you can use fresh or canned tomatoes. If you like your sauce on the sweet side, use San Marzano. You do not need to put sugar in your pasta sauce. These lovelies are grown in the Sarnese Nocerino area of Campania, near Naples. They have a very distinct flavor that makes a great sub for fresh tomatoes in winter months, and they are the gold standard for some chefs who are serious about their red sauce.

If you want to buy ripe Romas and make it fresh, blanch the whole tomatoes in boiling water for one minute, or until the skins start to split. Throw them in an ice bath to cool, and the skins should peel off easily.

Blend them with fresh garlic, bring to a simmer on the stove, and season with sea salt. Cool and stir in fresh basil sliced into thin ribbons. Refrigerate for up to five days. Freeze in zip locs for up to six months.

You can add seafood and vegetables to the pomodoro for a light meal, like this shrimp and scallop dish. Fresh scallops are most abundant during the winter, and if you can find jumbo diver scallops, your life may be forever changed. 

Make sure they are clean and patted dry. Sear them for one minute on each side, on a hot pan with just a bit of grapeseed or avocado oil, until they start to brown. Then add a pat of butter to let them finish, and remove them as soon as they are opaque and start to firm.

Set the scallops aside and saute peeled shrimp in the same pan with butter for about two minutes. Add pomodoro sauce and red chile flakes. Once the shrimp is done and the sauce is heated through, add the scallops and toss to coat. Serve immediately over prepared angel hair pasta and garnish with fresh chives.

For marinara, you just need mirepoix, (celery, carrots, and onions), garlic and tomatoes. Follow the directions below to prep your veggies and smell your dried herbs before you put them in the sauce. If they smell like sawdust, use them for a simmer pot or sachet. They don’t have enough flavor left to use in food.

For bolognese, you start with meat and mirepoix. If you want a smooth sauce, blend your veggies with water and then strain the water off and save for cooking the pasta. If you like a chunky sauce, rough chop your mirepoix. Heat up a large stock pot and add some olive oil.

Throw in your ground or chopped meat, or chopped mushrooms as a veggie sub. Cook over medium high heat until all is browned, then add your celery, carrots, and onions. Saute until they start to soften and turn golden.

Add four cups of fresh cooked and peeled tomatoes, or two large cans of petite diced, or crushed tomatoes. If the sauce is too thick at this point, add plain canned tomato sauce or tomato juice. If it’s too thin, it will need to reduce for a while. Either way, add a small can of tomato paste and stir well. Let everything simmer for at least 30 minutes. Then taste and add salt and pepper. Simmer for up to three hours on low, stirring frequently. 

If there is too much grease on top of the sauce for your taste, throw a couple of pieces of bread or a thick sliced fresh potato on top to absorb it. Lift out with a slotted spoon once the orange fat has almost disappeared. Add a quarter cup of balsamic vinegar or sweet red wine and simmer for 20 more minutes.

Turn off the heat and allow to cool for at least 30 minutes before handling. If you want to add any cheese, now is the time. It’s a good idea to stick to dry or cream cheeses at this stage, to add flavor and create a sauce that will stick to pasta, and ribs. Save your mozzarella, provolone, and any shredded or sliced cheese until you assemble your dish or plate.

Adding ground Romano and ricotta will turn this into a thick sauce ready to fill shells or spread between lasagna noodles. I always add a metric ton of parmesan at the end. Then ladle it directly onto the pasta. I add olive oil and more parmesan, and finish with ground pepper. Then I don’t want anyone to talk to me for the next 20 minutes. I just need a napkin tucked into my collar and a glass of RED???

STUFFED CHICKEN

The chicken dish is the most time consuming to prepare, and will require a meat tenderizing mallet or a cast iron skillet you can wield as a tool to beat the chicken into thin cutlets. The best way to keep everything sanitary and avoid cross contamination is to cover your counter with foil. Then place a couple of damp paper towels on top, then cover with plastic wrap.

Prep your filling by washing one Roma or other small tomato for each serving. Cut away each side from the center and chop the firm flesh into small cubes. Place in a strainer and allow the excess liquid to drain into a bowl. Sprinkle it with salt. In a separate bowl, mix fresh chopped spinach and garlic with a small bunch of fresh sliced basil. Place a spoon in each bowl.

Wearing gloves, place two chicken breasts on the plastic prep space, then cover with another layer of plastic wrap. Use a circular motion to beat the meat from the center outward, until it looks to be about one inch thick. Place a spoonful of chopped tomatoes and a spoonful of spinach onto each chicken breast. Fold in the sides and roll up around the filling, securing the ends with toothpicks, or tie with cooking twine.

Placed in an oiled baking dish. Once all the chicken breasts are stuffed, bake on 325 for 25 minutes, covered with foil. Pull one piece out to check for doneness. Cook in 5-7 minute increments until the biggest pieces are cooked through.

Allow to cool while you make the Asiago cream. Reduce one pint of heavy cream for every two pieces of chicken you plan to serve. Once the cream has thickened over medium-high heat, add a quarter cup of shredded Asiago cheese. Lower the heat and stir until the cheese melts. Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside to cool.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, slice each roll into 3-5 pieces and return to the baking pan, placing each piece like a shingle on the one before it. If the filling escapes, tuck it back in with a spoon and add any leftover filling from your earlier assembly to the pan if you need a bit more to fill in the pieces of chicken. 

Twenty minutes before serving time, reheat the pan of stuffed chicken on 375, topped with the Asiago cream. Serve with a side of pasta, tossed in butter, fresh garlic, and fresh chopped parsley.

EASY TIRAMISU

Now for my favorite dessert. Even when there is no booze in it. Whether the ladyfingers are soft and fresh made, or dry and stale when I start. Whether all I had was instant coffee or freshly ground, 100% Colombian dark roast, brewed in my French press. The layers of sweet creamy Mascarpone and coffee soaked sponge cake, topped with dark cocoa powder always takes me back to the first days of experiencing the most decadent food of my young life.

For the easiest recipe, start with three cups of strong coffee. Pour into a Mason jar, add a half a cup of rum or coffee flavored liqueur and chill until it’s time to assemble. Set two 10-12 ounce containers of good quality Mascarpone cheese on the counter. 

Then whip 4 cups of chilled heavy cream in a chilled bowl until it starts to thicken. Add half a cup of superfine sugar to the cream and whip for one minute. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add half a teaspoon of vanilla and the Mascarpone. Switch to a whisk and mix by hand to combine thoroughly. Refrigerate while you assemble the base layer. 

Dip the lady fingers into the coffee quickly, then place and press them into the bottom of a serving dish until the bottom is covered. Use a long metal frosting spatula or large spoon to spread a thick layer of Mascarpone on top. Repeat at least once more, ending with a layer of Mascarpone. Cover with a piece of wax paper and then cover with plastic wrap. Chill for at least four hours and up to three days.

When you are ready to serve, remove the plastic and wax, and dust with a heavy coating of dark cocoa powder. Top with shaved dark chocolate. If you want to make it extra pretty, top each serving with a dollop of whipped cream, a chocolate covered espresso bean, and a little extra dusting of cocoa powder.

Serve with espresso and a sliver of lemon rind, rubbed around the rim and dropped into the demitasse cup just before serving. A sparkling wine, rich dark red, or port would be a luxurious ending to this meal, and maybe a second espresso while you enjoy your guests. Hopefully you chose to share this meal with people who will do the dishes. If not, spray all the crusty baked on things with straight white vinegar and it will take you less time to get them clean in the morning.

No one will know if you have Tiramisu and espresso for breakfast, and they shouldn’t judge you if you do. It’s a mark of superior taste, a form of self care, and a love language that I hope more people will adopt in the coming year. 

Make good food. Serve it with good wine and share it with those you love. It’s one of the most radical things you can do in a hostile world. Create your own simple pleasures, and they become much needed indulgences that make life richer and sweeter, like the 2024 Texas Lenoir Blush at WSCW.

Cheers to all the delicious things that can happen in 2025. I hope you have your hands in all of them.

By Kristie Stevens