Winter In Asia

I think there are many international meals that when they are served in their complete state, as one would enjoy if they visited the country of origin, gives the diner a unique euphoria. Sashimi with edamame, seaweed salad, green tea, and sake always seems to give me a sense of satisfaction that is unparalleled by anything else. Then there is chicken fettuccine alfredo with crusty garlic bread, a house made Caesar salad, and a glass of dark rich red, followed by a dish of Tiramisu and an espresso with a sliver of lemon zest. 

I have prepared many versions of this meal. Originally inspired by an auntie from Trinidad who taught me how to make yellow Madras chicken curry, and then cultivated by a gentleman from London who could make five kinds of curry in his sleep, I developed my own expressions of different curries, which are as rich and varied as the mole sauces of Latin cooking. Each one encapsulates a season through the herbs and vegetables, and a rich aromatic sauce that feels like a healing balm for your soul.

When paired with other indigenous ingredients, this three-course meal can take you to a place that feels like home, no matter where you grew up. I hope reducing the coconut milk while the spices waft through your house brings you joy, and the neighbors are inspired to come and join you with some of the wines suggested below from West Sandy Creek Winery.

The Fish and the Forest	The Bird	The Tree and the Clouds
Seared Ahi Tuna on field greens, with Shitake mushroom tapenade, fresh ginger, Sriracha, and roasted nori	Green Chicken Curry with Jasmine Rice Cucumber Raita with local honey, yogurt and lemon Pear Chutney with sweet peppers  Hot buttered Naan bread with Cilantro Garlic Chili Oil	Fuji Apple Tart with Monk Fruit Caramel and Bluebell Ice Cream
Pair with 2024 Texas Lenoir Blush Estate	Pair with 2019 Texas Blanc du Bois Sweet – Estate	Pair with 2020 Portejas Blanc

 

The Fish and the Forest

If you can get fresh tuna or other fresh fish, always go with fresh catch. Shrimp would also work well in this recipe. Flash frozen ahi steaks are affordable, easy to find, and will thaw in a slow stream of running water in less than 20 minutes. 

If you like them rare, you can cook them after thawing for just a few minutes; just enough to make the surface accept some ground spices. Pat them dry before pressing all sides into a dredge of black pepper and black sesame seeds. Cook on high heat for about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Always use your soy sauce at the end, after you throw in a couple of pats of butter and a drizzle of Sriracha. 

Any kind of greens will do, but a combo with arugula, fresh dill and Swiss chard is my favorite. Baby spinach or sauteed purple cabbage will make a more colorful and nutrient-dense landing pad.

The Shitake mushrooms are best bought dried and reconstituted in hot water until soft, then drained and mixed with thinly sliced green onions and bamboo shoots, and a splash of liquid smoke. Allow to sit overnight and adjust the seasoning before serving.

If you are vegan or vegetarian, a Portobello mushroom cap, stemmed and sliced and sauteed in oil with garlic powder with a splash of soy, would make a star plating that even meat eaters would enjoy. 

Once the tuna or mushroom is cooked and cooled, slice thin and serve on the greens, top with tapenade, fresh grated ginger and a zig zag of Sriracha. Serve with crispy wonton strips for a little extra crunch.

The Bird

Overall notes

The next part of this meal can be made with canned jackfruit in place of chicken, drained and added directly to the sauce, or sauteed with your choice of veggies and served over the rice. The main reason I always make the sauce separately is that it may be too spicy for some folks, and cooking the veggies in oil seals in their flavors rather than everything tasting like the sauce from simmering in it.

Cucumber Raita

Peel a cucumber and slice lengthwise, removing the sides from the seeds in the center. Then cut into strips and into cubes. Salt liberally and allow them to release their juices before you add them to the yogurt.  Drizzle a small puddle of honey in the bottom of a glass soup bowl. Add the juice of one lemon. Heat it in the microwave for 10-20 seconds if the honey is cold so that the two combine. Add a bit if Himalayan sea salt and garlic powder. Mix well and then add the yogurt until combined. 10-12 ounces of plain Greek, full fat yogurt is plenty for six people, but if you make extra, it goes great with hummus and naan bread as a snack.

Pear Chutney

Many curries of old call for mint chutney, which is just plain weird. I concocted this one by using fresh fruits in season that compliment the other flavors, and people always seem to love it. I use apples, peaches and strawberries in summer, or pineapples, crisp apples and sweet peppers. Bosch pears in winter have the greatest flavor, and almost disintegrate into a jam that gives this spicy dish a sweet and tangy sidekick.

Peel two or three pears, cut away the flesh and cube it. Place in a medium saucepan with a bit of fruit juice or water. Cranberries or apples work great. Seed, slice and cube the sweet peppers and add to the mix. Simmer them together until soft over medium heat, then add half a cup of brown or raw sugar and turn down the heat so it doesn’t burn. 

Keep an eye on it and stir until the sugar melts. Add apple cider vinegar, a splash at a time, until you reach the amount of tart you want. You can always add more sugar and vinegar as the sauce thickens. Applesauce is a good way to sweeten it without added sugar. Add salt at the end. If it does burn, resist the urge to stir it. Pour it into another pan to finish and soak the burnt bits in baking soda and vinegar overnight for easy cleaning tomorrow.

Cilantro Garlic Chili Oil

You can always buy a flavored avocado or grapeseed oil at a gourmet market, or you can make your own. For the chili oil, you can use dried peppers and let them soften over a low heat for an intense heat, or seed your peppers and chop fine. Saute until soft and add more oil. Garlic chile paste is a time saver, and you can add a tablespoon to a cup and a half of avocado or grapeseed oil with a bit of salt and a handful of fresh clean cilantro leaves or stems and blend.

Whenever I use cilantro in a dish, I usually blend the stems into oil with fresh garlic and keep it in a Mason jar in the fridge. Adding some red chile flakes to that after blending will make a medium heat oil that most people can tolerate with hot buttered naan fried in a skillet or on a comal.

Green Chicken Curry With Jasmine Rice

I prefer chicken thighs, but breasts work fine. Be sure to wear gloves when you work with raw chicken, and sanitize your cutting board and cabinets thoroughly when you complete that task.

One of the stealth moves in Asian cooking is called “velveting”, which simply means sprinkling 3/4 teaspoon of baking soda for every eight ounces of chicken and letting it sit for 20 minutes. It makes a coating that tenderizes the meat with no effort, and the result is amazing. After it sits, season with salt, pepper, and garlic powder and roast the chicken pieces in the oven on 350. Cool and slice into strips, and keep warm until serving.

Have some extra time and want to experiment?

For whole roasted chicken, rinse and pat dry. Stuff the carcass with a combo of lemons, limes or oranges, cilantro, Granny or Fuji apples, celery, carrots, and red onions. Place on an oiled, slotted roasting pan lined with foil to catch the drippings, or in a roasting pan with a rack.

Rub the outside with oil and season with salt and pepper, garlic powder and ground ginger after you stuff if and place it in the pan breast side up. Crisp the skin by cooking it at 385 for 25-30 minutes, then take the bird out and cover it with foil. Return to the oven and turn the heat down to 300. Total cooking time should be 15 to 18 minutes per pound, and at least 15 to 20 minutes of resting time before you slice and serve. You could also skip this part and buy some pulled chicken from the cold case at your grocer. 

For the green curry sauce, you can make your own by grinding green chiles, shrimp paste or fish sauce, lemongrass, coriander seed or cilantro, Galangal, onions, turmeric, garlic, basil and ginger. Or buy the paste already made by Thai Kitchen or May Ploy.

The base of the sauce is canned coconut milk. Do not use the LIGHT version. You want as much fat as possible for a creamy sauce, and if you consume dairy, it never hurts to add some heavy cream at the end, either to thicken the sauce or tone down the heat. Be sure to adjust the salt after the sauce has reduced a bit. Shake each can of coconut milk before opening, or the liquid will stay trapped under the fat. Use a can of coconut milk for each guest you are serving.

Use a larger pot than you think you need, to keep the sauce from bubbling over. It will act the same as heavy cream once it gets hot. Stir frequently over med-high heat until the coconut milk is reduced by half, or it has thickened to the consistency of Alfredo Sauce. Add three tablespoons of paste and combine thoroughly. Allow to simmer for ten minutes and then adjust the seasoning. When the sauce has reached the consistency and flavor you like, turn it off to cool a bit.

Make the jasmine rice as directed, while the chicken is finishing. When you are ready to serve the entree, ladle a small amount of green curry sauce onto the bottom of a shallow bowl or rimmed plate. Place a large scoop of rice on the sauce and top with a generous pile of cooked chicken. Garnish with chopped scallions and serve with more sauce on the side.

The Tree and the Clouds

The dessert can be made a day ahead with individual premade tart crusts. Peel and slice the apples thinly and soak in a pot of lemon water. Let them sit in the fridge until you are ready to assemble. Drain the apples and place on paper towels to air dry for ten minutes. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with raw sugar, and a couple of pinches of salt and ground ginger. Stir gently and divide the apples into the tart shells. Top with thin pats of butter and bake until golden brown on 350.

For the caramel, place four tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add half a cup of monk fruit sweetener and stir until smooth. Stir constantly for the next five minutes, until the mixture turns golden. Slowly add half a cup of heavy cream, using a long handled wooden spoon to keep your hands safe when it bubbles up. Continue to cook for one more minute. Remove from heat and allow to cool. 

Place the tarts on your serving dishes, top with ice cream and caramel sauce while it’s still warm, and serve with hot jasmine green tea.

This is the midpoint of heaven. Dinner is done. Warmth has filled your whole being. You can open another bottle of 2024 Lenoir Blush, or have a bit more Portejas Blanc before you drift off to sleep, dreaming of a winter wonderland, and the next great meal you can pair with the award-winning wines from West Sandy Creek Winery for the holidays.

Cheers to all you share this season. May it bring you closer to those who match your zest for good food and wine, and your standards for living well.

 

By Kristie Stevens